Lounge
Do fashion collaborations give both brands an edge?
Summary
As more international brands look to partner with Indian creatives, a closer look at what will make these mergers truly meaningful
If there’s one fashion trend that’s here to stay, it is that of fashion collaborations—when two brands, usually one larger than the other, come together to create a limited-edition product or a capsule collection. The idea isn’t new and can be traced back to when legendary designer Elsa Schiaparelli teamed up with surrealist artist Salvador Dalí in the 1930s, creating pieces like the Lobster Dress, but the constant fusion of often different aesthetics pushes the boundaries of fashion. Like the iconic 2004 Karl Lagerfeld x H&M collaboration that popularised the collab trend.
Among the first Indian designers to partner with an international brand was Manish Arora, who worked with Reebok in 2004. The result was a perfect marriage of high fashion and high-performance athletic wear, ensuring the international fashion industry took note of Arora’s exuberance. “These partnerships offer an edge they can’t get with their mainstay lines," says celebrity stylist, costume designer and creative director Anaita Shroff Adajania. “Collaborations allow them to experiment, to loosen up, to have a little fun with their design language. And that’s what makes them so vibrant and appealing."
As international luxury brands look to connect more with the Indian consumer, who is continuing to spend despite the current global downturn, collaborations have become more important than ever. This year alone, we’ve seen Anita Dongre collaborate with toymaker Mattel for a Barbie doll, Rahul Mishra partner with Italian luxury brand Tod’s, and Anamika Khanna create a capsule collection with H&M. The fact that these collection are limited editions make them more appealing, says Shroff Adajania. “The shorter shelf life adds to their charm, offering a sense of exclusivity."
Collaborations appeal to all age groups across India, if they have a cultural text.
As Aria Parikh, head (special projects), at multi-brand store Ensemble, says, collaborations with Indian designers allow international brands to tap into “not just the purchasing power but also the emotional connection of Indian consumers. It’s not just about India—it’s about the shared cultural heritage of the entire subcontinent. Brands like H&M and Barbie have successfully localised their products, making them resonate deeply with consumers. Collaborations with legends like Anita Dongre and Anamika Khanna offer access to cult followings, while brands like Bulgari and Louis Vuitton, with their limited collections, create products that feel made for us, sparking an emotional response."
Also read: The truth behind the global love for desi design
And such partnerships help Indians shine, adds Masoom Minawala Mehta, a content creator, investor and entrepreneur. “If international brands put cultural appreciation first, then these collaborations really have a memorable impact on the fashion landscape, even if the product available is a limited edition."
These collaborations, however, can’t make up for the mass cultural appropriation that India has experienced over the years. While cultural appreciation is important, they are just a small step in correcting historical wrongs than offering genuine cultural exchange.
These collaborations can be a win-win, believes Divyak D’Souza, stylist, costume designer and creative director. “They allow a broader audience to access the brand’s products, widening their market," he says. “For local talent, it’s a significant evolution—they gain exposure and benefit from the marketing strength and budgets that major brands bring."
That said, D’Souza adds, “as a stylist, I always scrutinise the quality and finish of these products. I’m often skeptical about whether the collaboration is a genuine meeting of minds or just a cash grab."
Beyond fashion, such collaborations also allow a “cultural exchange".
The Sutr Santati: Then Now Next, which took place earlier this place in Delhi, for instance, displayed 75 different textiles from across India. The show later travelled to Melbourne.
“This was a collaboration between my exhibition and the Indian diaspora in Australia, allowing them to reconnect with their culture while introducing Australians to India’s craft heritage," says Lavina Baldota, a textile curator and revivalist.
Till now, luxury brands have mainly collaborated with well known fashion designers like Rahul Mishra or Anita Dongre.
Going forward, they would do well by seeking unexpected collaborators. “Collaboration efforts must feel natural but also have that ‘A-ha!’ moment," says Srimoyi Bhattacharya, founder of luxury consultancy Peepul Advisory. “The most fun collaborations are unexpected cross-pollinations, especially between art and fashion, that challenge a brand’s notions and appeal to a client’s psyche. Hermès collaborated with architect Rooshad Shroff and more recently with art director Aradhana Seth—this helped refine the brand’s visual identity locally. The Louis Vuitton capsule by iconic artist Yayoi Kusama was both incredible and unexpected."
While the world saw some great collaborations in 2024, there is still room for that defining marriage of Indian and international creative talent.
Also read: The biggest fashion trend of 2024: Designers broadcasting house codes
Industry experts on partnerships they would like to see in 2025
GAUTAM KALRA
STYLIST & CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Adidas x Rajesh Pratap Singh. It would seamlessly blend Adidas’ performance technology with Singh’s design sensibilities, which range from minimalist to futuristic.
SRIMOYI BHATTACHARYA
FOUNDER, PEEPUL ADVISORY
A heritage Indian textile brand and a sustainability pioneer like Stella McCartney. It would showcase India’s textile heritage and promote eco-friendly fashion practices.
DIVYAK D’SOUZA
COSTUME DESIGNER & STYLIST
We create exquisitely crafted fine jewellery, and India has a rich culture of buying it from local creators. Many international jewellers don’t always translate well for Indian occasions like weddings. There’s a gap that needs to be filled.
LAVINA BALDOTA
TEXTILE CURATOR & REVIVALIST
A French clothing brand like Pierre-Louis Mascia, which is inspired by prints, with handcrafted Indian prints instead of digital prints.
ARIA PARIKH
HEAD (SPECIAL PROJECTS) ENSEMBLE
The Met Museum honouring global fashion’s relationship with India. India’s contribution—whether through fabrics, textiles, drapery, or embroidery—is so deeply woven into fashion that it’s time we truly recognise it.
MASOOM MINAWALA MEHTA
CONTENT CREATOR, INVESTOR & ENTREPRENEUR
A partnership between a global brand like Chanel and Raw Mango, where traditional weaving techniques are given a fresh twist.
Dress Sense is a monthly column on the clothes we wear every day.
Sujata Assomull is a journalist, author and mindful fashion advocate.
Also read: The key to unlocking India's luxury market
